Climbing skins | Snuitide

Climbing skins are strips of hair or synthetic fibre that attach to the underside of the skis and let you climb steep terrain without sliding backwards. The hairs are directional: they glide easily forwards and lock backwards. On flat and gentle terrain you glide forwards almost as normal; on a steep ascent you get grip where ordinary skis would slide back.

Three materials — three compromises

Mohair (goat hair, traditionally from the angora goat) gives the best glide forwards and copes very well with cold conditions. Classic for racing use and for those who prioritise the least friction over long days. Price: 1,500–2,500 kr per pair. The downsides: more vulnerable to wear, more expensive, and the hairs lose their grease over time and occasionally need treating with a special grease impregnation.

Synthetic (typically nylon or polyester) is more hard-wearing, copes better with bare ground (stones, twigs), and is cheaper. It glides less well forwards than mohair, and collects more moisture. Best for those who are hard on their gear or who travel a lot in conditions regardless of the weather. Price: 800–1,600 kr per pair.

Mix (mohair-synthetic, often 70/30 or 65/35) is the most common choice for ordinary ski touring (topptur) in Norway. A compromise between glide and durability. Price: 1,200–2,000 kr per pair.

For most Norwegian ski tourers, mix skins are the starting point — they cope better with the variable Norwegian conditions (wet spring snow, hard wind-blown snow, deep powder) than pure mohair skins, and lose only a little glide compared with pure mohair.

Attachment systems

The skins attach to the ski with a combination of glue, a hook at the front and an elastic or clip at the back. The main variants:

Tip-loop at the front + tail-clip at the back — the most common system. Hook or loop at the front, spring clip at the back. Copes with heavy loads, can be adjusted to ski width.
Tip-loop only (no tail attachment) — for racing and lightweight race skis. Lighter and packs smaller, but less robust under heavy wear.
Tip + tail with a strap — for wide skis and steep ski use. Maximum durability, the most pack volume.

The glue is what actually holds the skin against the ski — the hook at the front and the clip at the back stop it sliding off lengthways. Good glue that is fresh and clean holds to the ski even at minus 20 degrees. Worn glue slips at 0 degrees.

Looking after the glue — what actually determines lifespan

Between trips: pack the skins “glue-to-glue” (the two skins fastened together with the glue sides facing each other) or with a protective sheet between them. Never glue against dust, snow or fabric — contamination ruins the glue.

After wet trips: let the skins dry at room temperature, glue side up, before you pack them. Never dry them on a radiator — the heat makes the glue run and deform.

When the glue fails: two options. Either apply new glue (Black Diamond Gold Label, Colltex Hotmelt — applied with an iron) or send the skins in for service at the classic manufacturers (Black Diamond, Colltex, G3, Pomoca, Contour). Re-gluing at home takes a little practice but is entirely possible.

Packing on a trip

On the ascent the skins sit under the skis. When you switch to the descent, you rip them off — and you need somewhere to do that with them. Three options:

Skin bag (a classic plastic bag or fabric bag with a zip) — cheap, light, works.
A dedicated pocket in the rucksack for wet skins, ideally with a waterproof inside.
Directly against the body under your jacket — keeps the glue warm so that it does not stiffen. Best in the cold, most practical for quick changes between ascent and descent.

In the cold: if the skins go cold while they are off the ski, the glue loses its hold when you later put them back on. Keep them warm between changes, particularly below −10 degrees.

Winter/summer skins

There is no real summer version — skins are used on snow. On bare ground they wear quickly and pick up stones in the hairs.

For spring snow that alternates between sun-skins-wet and cold shade: take a water-repellent treatment (Black Diamond Glop Stopper, Colltex Skin Care) that you can rub on during breaks. This stops wet snow sticking to the front of the hairs and weighing the ski down.

When you have to buy new ones

Signs that the skins are finished:

The glue lifts more than 1–2 cm from the edge under normal use
The hairs are worn down to the backing in the centre (losing grip)
The skin slides backwards on a moderate ascent where you previously had grip
The attachment hook or the tail clip is broken or bent beyond repair

With normal maintenance, skins last 100–250 touring days. Professionals use them for 50–100 days before replacing them to ensure top performance — ordinary touring use stretches further without a dramatic drop in performance.

Looking after touring gear →

Text: Snuitide (2026), based on Pomoca, Colltex and Black Diamond’s own technical documents, as well as experience from Norwegian ski touring circles.