Ski touring

Climbing skins and randonnée gear

Ski-touring kit — skins, pin bindings, randonnée skis, transceiver, shovel, probe. How the system fits together, what has changed over the past twenty years, and what is nice-to-have versus non-negotiable.

Ski-touring kit is a complex setup, and still developing. In the 1980s, when Nils Faarlund and his circle were among the first Norwegians to take up systematic ski mountaineering, pin bindings were almost impossible to get hold of here at home — people imported them from Switzerland or converted alpine bindings. In the 2000s pin bindings became available in Norway too, and around 2007 randonnée sales really began to take off. Today ski-touring kit is the most fully developed part of the ski shops, with specialised options for everything from light racing skis to expedition gear.

The ascent itself requires skins (feller) — ‘skins’ fastened under the skis that give grip on steep terrain. The binding has to be able to free the heel for walking forwards, and to lock the heel down for the descent. The skis have to be light enough to carry up, but wide enough to work in steep and varied snow. On top of all this comes the avalanche kit — transceiver, shovel, probe — which in genuine avalanche terrain is not optional.

Climbing skins — what makes the ascent possible

Climbing skins (feller) are strips of mohair, synthetic or blended hair fastened to the underside of the skis. The hairs are ‘brushed’ in one direction so that they glide forwards easily but lock backwards. The result is that you can walk up terrain at a slope angle of 25–30 degrees without slipping.

The main materials:

Mohair (goat hair) gives the best glide and copes well with cold conditions. More prone to wear, more expensive, and harder to maintain in damp. The classic choice for racing and for those who prioritise the least friction.

Synthetic (typically nylon or polyester) is more hard-wearing and copes better with damp and bare ground. Best for varied conditions and for those who do not want to have to be careful.

Mix (mohair–synthetic) is the most common choice for ordinary ski touring — it combines glide and durability reasonably well.

Skins typically last 100–200 days of use before they begin to lose grip. The glue on the back needs renewing or replacing over time. In practice: dry the skins before you pack them, and have some kind of ‘skin bag’ or plastic bag to wrap them in when they are wet.

On steep traverses some people also need harscheisen (ski crampons) — metal claws fastened under the skin that give extra grip on hard snow or ice. Few need them for ordinary ski touring, but if you do a lot of walking on icy spring snow or hard Norwegian wind slab they are worth considering.

Bindings — pin binding or frame?

The main choice in randonnée bindings is between the pin binding (also called low-tech or tech) and the frame binding.

A pin binding has a pin at the front that locks into two holes in the boot, and a locking mechanism behind the heel that locks down for the descent. Light (often 250–500 g per binding), simple, and dominates the market for normal ski touring. Requires specific randonnée boots with pin holes. Classic makers: Dynafit, Plum, ATK, Marker (the Alpinist range).

A frame binding is a whole ramp fastened to the ski, on which the boot sits as in an alpine binding. The heel can be raised for the ascent and locked down for the descent. Heavier (often 1,000+ g per binding), but compatible with ordinary alpine boots. The classic choice for those who do not want a separate randonnée boot system, or for heavier descents in steep terrain.

For ordinary Norwegian ski touring the pin binding is by far the most common and the practical recommendation. Frame bindings are most relevant for those who mainly ski alpine and only occasionally go ski touring.

Bindings have different release requirements and DIN values — set them according to weight and skill, not according to the default setting.

Skis — width and length

Touring skis are a market with many variants. The main factors that govern the choice:

Width underfoot governs flotation in soft snow and how well the ski works in different conditions. The classic breakdown:

  • 75–85 mm — racing/touring use, light and fast on the way up, but limited in soft snow
  • 85–95 mm — the all-round segment, covers most of Norwegian ski touring
  • 95–110 mm — varied conditions, good in soft snow, still reasonable on the way up
  • 110+ mm — the free-ski segment, for those who prioritise the descent in soft snow

For someone planning one pair of skis for their first year: 85–95 mm is the safe choice in Norway. It covers normal seasonal conditions and is still light enough to carry up.

Length generally follows your height minus 5–10 cm for touring, or plus/minus 5 cm around your height for those who prioritise more flotation.

Sidecut and shape — modern touring skis tend to have more sidecut than classic skis for easier turning, and some models have an upturned ‘rocker’ at the front and back for better descents in soft snow.

Boots

Randonnée boots come in two main categories:

Light touring boots (under 1,200 g per boot) for long tours and ascents where weight matters. Classic examples are the Dynafit TLT, Atomic Backland, Scarpa F1.

Freeride boots (1,200–1,800 g) that are stiffer and better for steep descents, but heavier to walk up in. La Sportiva Vega, Salomon S/Lab MTN, Tecnica Zero G Tour Pro.

Which suits whom is individual. As a rule of thumb: the more you prioritise the ascent and the longer the tours, the lighter the boot. The more you prioritise steep descents, the stiffer.

Fit is what actually determines whether the boot works for you. Better to have a mediocre model that fits than a top model that does not. Most serious ski shops do boot-fitting and give you time to try them on.

Avalanche kit — not optional

In avalanche terrain three things are categorically compulsory: avalanche transceiver, shovel and probe. Plus the competence to use them under stress.

The avalanche transceiver is a transmitter/receiver that everyone in the group carries. If someone is caught in an avalanche, the transceiver sends a signal that the remaining group members can use to locate the person under the snow. The standard is three-antenna models (all modern transceivers), which give better precision. Classic makers: Mammut Barryvox, Black Diamond Recon, BCA Tracker, ARVA Neo.

The transceiver should be:

  • Switched on when you set out, off when you finish the tour
  • Checked every tour — a beep test before you head out
  • Carried on the body, not in the pack (a pack can be lost in an avalanche)

The transceiver is only useful if you can use it quickly under pressure. Training in search procedure is as important as the kit. Clubs and mountain-sports clubs run search training regularly.

A shovel to dig the person out. Aluminium with a metal handle — plastic blades are too weak. The packed size should be able to fit in the pack.

A probe to locate the person precisely once the transceiver has located the area. Aluminium or carbon, typically 240–320 cm long. It should be able to be assembled quickly.

Training in their use is what actually saves lives. A person under the snow has 15–20 minutes before the survival rate drops dramatically. A competent group search can find and dig out a person in under 15 minutes — an inexperienced group often needs 30+ minutes. The difference is often death or life.

Pack — ordinary or avalanche?

For ski touring there are two types of pack:

An ordinary ski-touring pack (25–35 l) is the one for ordinary backcountry cross-country skiing (fjellski) and lighter ski touring. It should have ski attachments, helmet attachment, and easily accessible tools.

An avalanche pack with airbag (ABS system) has a built-in balloon that you deploy if you are caught in an avalanche. The balloon increases your volume so that you float higher up in the snow. The studies show a considerable reduction in mortality in avalanches for those who carry and use an airbag.

An avalanche pack costs more (4,000–8,000 kr extra) and weighs more (1–2 kg extra). For ordinary ski touring it is a rational investment if you are often in avalanche terrain. For occasional ski touring or mostly backcountry cross-country tours it is often not necessary.

Accessories

The rest of the ski-touring kit is often sensibly packed:

  • Helmet — for the descent, especially in steep terrain. A light climbing/ski helmet works.
  • Sunglasses and goggles — sunglasses for the ascent, goggles for the descent. Winter sun and snow reflection give a UV load.
  • Gloves or mittens — ideally a thin pair for the ascent and a thick pair for the descent and breaks.
  • Flask — a hot drink in the cold is underrated
  • Energy food — chocolate and dates cope with the cold better than many energy bars
  • First-aid kit — compression bandage, taping for the ankle, painkillers
  • Repair kit — multi-tool for the binding, ski strap for backup, P-tex for ski damage

Packing lists work through specific variants for different ski-touring formats.

What has changed over the past twenty years

Ski-touring kit is still developing, and a few trends are worth pointing out:

Pin bindings have become lighter, stronger and more reliable. A modern pin binding from ATK or Plum weighs under 250 g and works well in alpine conditions that previously required a frame binding.

Skin systems with integrated skins on the ski (permanently fastened) are on the rise for racing and touring use. They reduce packing work and are reliable, but they limit flexibility in different snow conditions.

Light freeride boots are a relatively new category — boots that are stiff enough for steep descents but light enough for long ascents. The classic example is the Tecnica Zero G Tour Pro and La Sportiva Vega.

Avalanche transceivers have become more user-friendly, with better user interfaces and faster processing. Three-antenna is standard.

Airbag packs have become lighter and cheaper. Previously they were heavy experts’ gear; today they are practical for ordinary ski touring.

For someone starting out with ski touring in 2026 it is simpler and cheaper to build a good kit package than it was ten years ago — but it is still a considerable investment, and the second-hand market is a good first way in.

Next steps

If ski touring is new to you: take an introductory avalanche course and join a club tour before you invest in your own kit. You learn more from a weekend with experienced people than from several months alone.

If you are planning your first purchase: consider second-hand from Finn.no or from mountain-sports forum groups on Facebook. Many people sell good kit after a season — people change gear more than you might think.

For skills context: reading the avalanche forecast is the theory, and ski touring works through the activity itself in context.

Learn more


Text: Snuitide (2026).